While the very thought of having to sit through an hour of boring lectures made most of my friends bunk history class, I was the odd one in the group who never missed a lesson. I guess my passion for the subject can be attributed to my history teacher from high school, a lady who went out of her way to ensure that her classes were anything but boring. To this day, I carry forth that passion and thus hit upon the idea of visiting places across Eastern India that stood up against the British Raj. Making this trip was no walk in the park and putting up at Treebo Green View at Park Circus, Kolkata, helped make life easier during the sweltering month of August. I knew that no matter how tiring my day was, I had a comfortable room waiting for me! So here is an account of my travails that I took back in 2015. I must add that I have left out the North Eastern states of India, which I plan to cover in another article.
Plassey – Treachery Triumphs
My first stopover – Plassey or as it is also called, ‘Palashi’ lies to the North of Kolkata (then Calcutta). It’s a small village located on the banks of the Bhagirathi river in the Nadia District of West Bengal. Had it not been for the treacherous methods deployed by the East India Company, the Battle of Plassey fought in June 1757 would have had a very different outcome, and history, as we read it today, would have told a different story. After all, could Robert Clive and his army of 3000 European soldiers and Indian sepoys with 8 pieces of artillery take down Nawab Siraj-Ud-Daula and his 50,000 troops and 50 cannons that were manned by French forces? I will leave that for you to answer.
Gazing at the monuments erected in memory of those who fought valiantly, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of remorse for those who turned their backs on the Nawab and aided Clive in establishing British supremacy in India. I could picture the Nawab and his army (minus the defectors) braving the elements of nature and defending their land, only to be met with defeat. However, there is a sense of pride that one feels when walking around Plassey. After all, the Nawab and his army did try their best to prevent the East India Company from establishing itself as a political power in the country.
Buxar Revisited
Had Siraj-Ud-Daula’s army prevailed, the battle of Buxar wouldn’t have happened. With him dead, the British chose Mir Qasim as the Nawab of Bengal, hoping to keep him tied down as one of their hand puppets. Alas, Mir Qasim chose not to comply and this resulted in three battles being fought against the East India Company. Defeated, Qasim joined forces with Shuja-Ud-Daula, the Nawab of Awadh and Mughal Emperor, Shah Alam II. However, the combined forces of the Mughals could not stand up to Major Hector Munroe and his troops and suffered defeat on October 23, 1764.
I spent most of the day at the battleground of Katkauli, which is around 6 km from Buxar. Two concrete pillars stand at the entrance of the battleground, reminding one of the harrowing events that unfolded centuries ago. War memorials are never a happy sight but the stone slabs and pillars constructed helped evoke a sense of patriotism and responsibility in me. Who would have imagined that a place so peaceful was the very same location where one of the fiercest battles in Indian history was fought.
Mutinies@Barrackpore
The oldest cantonment in India, Barrackpore played a significant role in instilling a sense of nationalism among the Indian sepoys which led to two events – the Sepoy Mutiny of 1824 and the First War of Independence which happened in 1857. Engaged with the Burmese (first Anglo – Burmese War), the British asked 47 sepoys to cross the waters of Burma and reach Rangoon. This was against the religious beliefs of the sepoys and a rebellion under the leadership of Binda Tiwary aka Bindi Baba ensued in 1824. However, this was short-lived and the East India Company once again prevailed.
The second rebellion which is considered by many historians as the ‘First War of Independence’ was lead by Mangal Pandey, a sepoy who opposed the East India Company’s use of paper cartridges during warfare. Rumors spread that the cartridges which had to be bitten before being loaded were greased with the fat of pigs and cows, a violation for both Hindu and Muslim sepoys. Pandey opened fire against Lt. Henry Baugh causing the other sepoys to rise up in arms. However, Mangal Pandey was soon captured and put to death by hanging on April 8, 1857.
Walking down the endless roads of the oldest cantonment sent shivers down my spine. Tall trees and creepers covered most of the warehouses that lay desolate and I couldn’t help but recreate the series of events that took place centuries ago. The sound of feet shuffling in defiance of the British rule, the sound of muskets going off and chants of freedom seemed to come alive as I passed through the cantonment. My next destination in Barrackpore was the Mangal Pandey Park dedicated to the freedom fighter. The park houses a statue of the sepoy reminding visitors of the sacrifice he and his fellow sepoys made. I also had the privilege of visiting Gandhi Museum on Riverside Road. Established in 1961, the place houses around 28,000 letters and 12,000 books written by Mahatma Gandhi. It also exhibits tape recordings, bulletins and press clippings that deal with the life and works of Gandhiji.
Netaji Bhavan in Kolkata
Established in 1961, the Netaji Research Bureau is part of Netaji Bhavan, the ancestral home of the radical leader Subhash Chandra Bose, the founder of the Indian National Army. Situated on Elgin Road or as it now called Lala Lajpat Rai Sarani, this historical place houses Netaji’s documents, articles, photographs that deal with his life and works, and collectables from around the world.
Champaran Satyagraha
When forced to grow indigo on their farms and not given sufficient remuneration in return, the peasants of Champaran district of Bihar grew agitated of the zamindars and British oppression. Hearing about the brutal treatment meted out to the peasants, Gandhiji visited Champaran to learn about the plight of the peasants. This visit was met with disapproval by the British who demanded that Gandhiji leave Champaran. However, this was not to happen and led to a prolonged period of civil disobedience. This Satyagraha or passive political resistance was the first in the series of three movements across 1917-18, spearheaded by Mahatma Gandhi.Getting off the train at Bapudham Motihari railway I imagined thousands of peasants gathering at this very platform awaiting the arrival of Mahatma Gandhi. Though India would gain freedom 30 years later, the hope of the people of Champaran is what sent shockwaves across the country inciting the people of India to take a firm and yet non-violent approach against the British Raj. I managed to get a local guide I visited two villages – Jasauli Patti and Chandraiah, Bhitiharwa Ashram which lies in the northwest of Bihar, Pipra Kothi in the south and as well as Hazarimal Dharamshala in Bettiah and the house of Advocate Gorakh Prasad where Gandhiji put up. I was rather sad at the sight of the Dharamshala which is now reduced to a garbage dump with numerous ad holdings covering its facade and the advocate’s house’s bare and half-demolished. Still, this did not dampen my spirits and I consider myself fortunate to have been able to visit these places. However, this isn’t the end of my trip as I travelled to the North Eastern states of India. As promised, I will include their participation in the Freedom Struggle Movement in another article, soon.
By Bryan
Image Credits:
Obelisks of Mirmadan, Nabe Singh Hajari & Bahadur Khan
Cenotaph dedicated to Mangal Pandey in Barrackpore
Bust of Netaji outside the Bhavan
Mahatma Gandhi addressing the peasants at Champaran
Of Maps And Trails 
It was a brilliant read! Felt like I was in a history class without it being tedious at all! Very informative.
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